The third edition of this book introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting and Manipulation Method. This method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for drafting a custom bra. Jennifer Fairbanks approaches pattern manipulation and design unlike previous methods. Developing the methods used in this book was not only challenging, but it was also thorough. This third edition of Bare Essentials: Bras introduces drafting for torso shape and height.The Bare Essentials series is an invaluable resource for anyone entering into the field of lingerie design and intimate apparel. This volume summarizes the basics of bra design, from sewing and construction to drafting and pattern grading; introducing these subjects in a manageable capacity.Bare Essentials: Bras is organized into three main sections based on the complexities of the information provided, each section introduces more complicated drafting methods.The first section of this book teaches how to construct a bra utilizing a pattern that is included in the back of the book. There are also simple pattern changes introduced in this section, including changing the elastic width, construction methods and general fitting changes.The intermediate section of Bare Essentials: Bras explains more complicated drafting manipulations including creating a nursing bra, mastectomy bras, padded and demi cut bras.The advanced section of this book, introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting method to create a band, then a cup based on 5 measurements and the wire. The draft creates a simple 3-piece cup to determine the volume required for a cup. The sloper creation chapter takes this 3-piece cup and redefines how to create custom designs based on this 3-piece cup sloper. The advanced section concludes with grading instructions for both hand drafting and computer drafting. This book is thorough in grading for both cup size and wire size. Patterns for this book can be downloaded at Porcelynne.com. They are located as an option for the book. These are the basics that you will learn: - Construction methods using elastics and stretch fabrics - Manipulation of basic patterns - Pattern drafting from measurements - Sloper creation and complex pattern manipulation - Developing grade rules and grading patterns
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